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Fall in Love with Utah: A Journey on Scenic Byway 12

by Tara Schatz July 15, 2018
July 15, 2018
Utah Scenic byway 12 traveling next to red rock cliffs under a cloudy sky

Please don't travel until it's safe to do so! Our travel posts are great for making future plans or dreaming about your next escape. Please check with each state/destination for its current COVID-19 guidelines before planning a visit. Also, please note that this post may contain links from which we earn a small commission.

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Our family has embarked on back road journeys all over America,  but we happened upon one stretch of pavement quite by accident. Since we first became acquainted with Scenic Byway 12 in Utah, we’ve been fueling our road trip dreams on the mere memory of the time we spent there.

Highway 12 in Utah is a National Scenic Byway, but we didn’t know that when we motored through. We had no idea that we were embarking on a 124-mile journey into the most stunningly beautiful landscape in the southwest. I’d argue that it is the most incredible visual experience in America – a landscape so ruggedly desolate that the drive alone is an experience worth writing about.

But there’s more to Utah Scenic Byway 12 than extraordinary beauty as viewed from the window of your road warrior machine. Your journey could be extended for weeks and weeks as you explore two national parks, three state parks, and millions of acres of national recreation and forest lands. Here are some highlights of this fabulous road trip – an absolute must for everyone who wants to fall hopelessly in love with the open road.

Panguitch and Red Canyon

A red rock tunnel straddles highway 12 in Red Canyon, Utah

A red rock tunnel straddles highway 12 in Red Canyon, Utah

Traveling from west to east, you will begin your foray in the little town of Panguitch. A historically-rich village that is steeped in the weather-beaten charm of the wild west, Panguitch is the place to stock up on provisions, throw back a drink at an authentic saloon, or embark on a historical walking tour. Just 25 miles from Bryce Canyon, Panguitch boasts a growing tourist economy while still maintaining its small-town roots.

From Panguitch, you will enter Red Canyon, which is where the excitement begins. Turn up your favorite tunes and prepare to be amazed at the pillars, pinnacles, and spires that stretch out for miles offer jaw-dropping spectacles around every bend. The performance continues for miles, but the red rocks will entice you to get a closer look before you’re too far into your journey.

The first stop is not far from Panguitch. If you’re into careening down a mountain on two wheels as the scenery blurs past and hikers run for safety, pull off at the trailhead of the Thunder Mountain Trail. It’s a world-class mountain biking destination and combined with the paved Red Canyon bike path, it makes a great loop for experienced riders. At one point, the cliffs drop off on two sides and you can see for miles in every direction. Just don’t look down.

A mountain bike flies over a cliff on a mountain biking trail in Utah

Mountain biking in Utah is pretty hardcore!

The Red Canyon Visitor Center is the perfect place to stretch your legs, learn more about the geological forces behind the landscape, and eat a picnic lunch. If you skipped Thunder Mountain, you might want to take a leisurely stroll on the Pink Ledges Trail. It’s a short, interpretive hike from the visitor center that leads you through a conifer forest to the base of a red rock cliff. Don’t forget your camera – even the cliffs around the visitor center are stunning!

Bryce Canyon National Park

A cloudy afternoon view of the Bryce Canyon voodoos

Beautiful Bryce Canyon

A lot has been written about the dazzling beauty of Bryce Canyon, so I won’t go into detail here. I will say that driving through and stopping at all of the vistas is pretty amazing in its own right, but you simply must spend at least one night in the canyon. We camped at Sunset Campground, which is close to some pretty awesome hiking trails.

If you make a point of getting up before the sun, you can watch it rise over the hoodoos and bathe the canyon in a rainbow of colors. Then, before the campground comes to life and you head back down for your morning coffee, you will feel like you are the only one in the vast empty canyon, and you’ll embark on a life on the road, changed forever. Okay, that’s just my little fantasy, but Bryce Canyon and this particular road trip really did rock my world.

A sunset view of Thor's Hammer in Bryce Canyon National Park

Thor’s Hammer in Bryce Canyon National Park

One more thing, please take advantage of the ranger-led night walk if it is offered during your stay. There are full-moon hikes and astronomy programs that will leave you breathless. On a clear, dark night, the milky way shines like a silver streak across the heavens and 7500 stars are visible to the naked eye.

Escalante Petrified Forest State Park

Travelers on Scenic Byway 12 often pass this park by in favor of more majestic and popular scenic attractions, but this quiet underachiever has some secrets to share if you give it half a chance. Here you will find a small, 22-site campground, a reservoir for bird watching, canoeing, and swimming, and some cool geological wonders.

While this petrified forest is less impressive in color and magnitude than the national park in Arizona, Escalante’s beauty lies in its obscurity and opportunities for solitude. Two short trails snake through the park. The first – Petrified Forest Trail, climbs up behind the campground and offers panoramic views of the surrounding park. The Trail of Sleeping Rainbows is a bit steeper with larger petrified specimens. In July, when we passed through, we shared the whole park with one other camper.

Coffee with a View and a Pueblo Village

Kiva Koffeehouse on Utah Scenic Byway 12

The views are real at Kiva Koffeehouse

Heading east on route 12 in Utah, you will just start to get into your driving groove when you will spot a sign for coffee. The magnetic pull of the road may be too strong for you to resist, but I urge you to pull off and visit the Kiva Koffeehouse.

This one-of-a-kind building is modeled after a traditional southwestern kiva. It is perched on the side of a cliff with expansive views of the canyon. What’s more, the coffee is really good, especially if you’ve been drinking gas-station mud since San Francisco.  On this particular road trip, our family had a thing about visiting coffee shops. They were our weakness and a huge source of comfort, especially in foul weather.

Anyway, by the time we reached Kiva Koffeehouse, we hadn’t had a decent cup since the coast, and we didn’t have high hopes for remedying the situation any time soon. We were happily surprised by the quality of the pastries and the coffee at Kiva, and we were stunned by the beauty of the building and the amazing views.

Just below the coffee house is a private cottage rental that we had to pass by. Kiva Kottage can be rented by the night or on a weekly basis in all four seasons. We missed it once, but we vowed to head back someday soon. Of course, we’ll tell you all about it when we do, unless you get there first, in which case I want a full report.

Next stop – Anasazi State Park Museum. This small museum and reconstructed Anasazi village is a quick and interesting spot, perfect for your picnic lunch, and especially fun if you have kids. The museum contains authentic pottery and a number of artifacts that were excavated on-site. The Anasazi, or Ancestral Pueblos, occupied the spot from 1050 until about 1200. The village is a combination of original excavation and reconstruction and is very well done, a perfect side trip for history buffs and homeschoolers like us.

Capitol Reef National Park

 

Capitol Reef National Park petroglyphs

Petroglyphs still remain at Capitol Reef from the early Fremont people

The last stop on your highway 12 adventure isn’t even on highway 12, but just to the east. Capital Reef is small national park, but rich in history and full of charm. This area was inhabited for thousands of years by nomadic hunters before the Fremont people finally settled down in 500 CE.  Petroglyphs from this time period can be viewed from a boardwalk just a short walk from the parking area. It is incredible to think that this ancient art has stood the test of time and the elements.

Mormon pioneers settled the valley in the 1800s as a mission, planting an abundance of fruit trees and farming the fertile land. This settlement was short-lived, but the orchard is still maintained by the National Park Service. In fact, the historic orchard at Capitol Reef is the largest in the national park system, with more than 3,100 fruit and nut trees.

The orchard is open to the public for picking, but we were a bit early for the harvest when we headed through in July. We did, however, score a fresh-baked cherry pie and homemade ice cream at the Gifford Homestead store. Fresh-baked pie when you’re living out of your car is a pretty big deal indeed.

The Fruita Schoolhouse in Capitol Reef National Park at night

The Fruita Schoolhouse in Capitol Reef National Park

The campground at Capitol Reef is small and unassuming, with a tiny river for swimming (we saw a snake in the water), and nice walking trails. The whole park has a hometown and leisurely feel to it. The rangers, as usual, were awesome, and even in the busy July travel season, the crowds were minimal.

So there you have it – a little summary of the most beautiful road in America. If you haven’t put Scenic Byway 12 in Utah on your travel bucket list, I advise you to do it straight away.

Want more ideas for outdoor adventures in Utah? Check out these great Utah hikes from Grace J Silla.

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A collage of Utah Scenes with a caption that reads: The Most Beautiful Road in America, Utah's Scenic Highway 12A scene of scenic byway 12 in Utah with red cliffs and cloudy skies.

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32 comments
Tara Schatz

Tara is a writer and photographer from Vermont with a passion for outdoor adventures. Her goal is to help people connect with the world and each other by stepping out of their front doors and embarking on journeys big and small.

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32 comments

Cyndi April 24, 2019 - 12:51 pm

I love Utah! And visited Capitol Reef and part of Escalante last summer. CR is a gorgeous little gem. I want to go back and see Bryce, and do more camping! Great article!

Reply
Stephanie May 16, 2017 - 9:35 am

Wow! What beautiful scenery!!!

Reply
Danielle Des April 8, 2016 - 3:27 am

I’ve heard so many incredible things about Bryce. I’m missing on so much by being on the East Coast.

Reply
Suma Jain April 7, 2016 - 4:59 pm

This place definitely goes into our bucket list while visiting US! We were so lost deep reading this that we would not stop ourself from picturing us being there! The picture of rainbow over the Bryce Canyon is absolutely stunning!

Reply
Natasha April 7, 2016 - 11:57 am

This looks so amazing. I’m living in Asia currently, but I really want to explore more of the US when I return home. I’d LOVE to do a road trip out west! 🙂

Reply
Tara April 7, 2016 - 1:42 pm

Natasha, I live on the east coast of the US, and I don’t get out west nearly enough. Can’t wait to explore more of it!

Reply
Carla Abanes April 7, 2016 - 11:26 am

Planning to visit Utah by next year for the Zion National Park. These photos makes me more excited. Thank you for sharing.

Reply
Tara April 7, 2016 - 1:43 pm

Carla,
I’ve never been to Zion. I think I could spend a whole year in Utah and not get bored.

Reply
Cyndi April 24, 2019 - 12:53 pm

Agreed. Seen Arches, Canyonlands, Green River, Park City, etc and I still need to keep going back!

Reply
Shayan Naveed April 7, 2016 - 8:30 am

People always talk about going to LA, NY, SF, etc. when they travel, especially from Asia. I would love to go places like this with such majestic landscape and opportunities for hiking and adventures. Bryce Canyon looks awesome.

Reply
Tara April 7, 2016 - 1:44 pm

Shayan,
I’m really not a city person – the natural world is where I always end up. Bryce Canyon is fabulous!

Reply
Hung Thai April 7, 2016 - 6:20 am

Beautiful, Tara! It seems like everyone has been to Bryce Canyon except me. Is the Arches National Park on the 12? I love Utah and will definitely need to go back – Bryce and Zion next!

Reply
Tara April 7, 2016 - 1:45 pm

Arches isn’t on route 12, but it’s definitely worth a side trip. Our next Utah adventure will include the eastern parks.

Reply
Cassie @ Cass Travels April 7, 2016 - 6:04 am

Wow, this is so beautiful and you’ve captured the light and the colours so well! It reminds me a little bit of driving through parts of Arizona.

Reply
Tara April 7, 2016 - 1:45 pm

Cassie – never been to Arizona, but we’re remedying that in just a few weeks!

Reply
Tricia @ The Adventure List April 7, 2016 - 5:21 am

My brain skipped from Wow cool rock tunnel to Mmmmm homemade ice cream. It’s like a dog, Squirrel! Lol.

Reply
Patricia April 7, 2016 - 3:53 am

I was just writing about how this whole area has made it to the top of my bucket list. The colors of the sandstone, the spires, the domes and the slot canyons have all thoroughly captured my imagination!

Reply
Bailey K. April 7, 2016 - 1:14 am

Ahh this is amazing. I’d love to do the whole of highway 12 one day. I’ve only been in one little corner of Utah before (Arches National Park), but I absolutely loved it and vowed I would be back to explore the whole state.

Reply
Tara April 7, 2016 - 1:43 am

That’s exactly how I feel, Bailey. I’d love to go back and really get to know Utah a little better. Never been to Arches…

Reply
Laura @ Grassroots Nomad April 6, 2016 - 4:24 pm

I didn’t realise that Utah was so stunning! I love those Petroglyphs, they remind me of the rock paintings that we have in Australia. Great post, thanks so much for sharing 🙂

Reply
Pinay Flying High April 6, 2016 - 4:08 pm

Oh my goodness! That’s amazing! The red rock tunnel is definitely something to give you a great preview of what you’re about to see during this roadtrip. I think I’d also be keen to stay in Kiva Kottage for a night, sounds like it’s going to be a very interesting stay!

Reply
Monica April 6, 2016 - 4:06 pm

Beyond the beautiful images of the picture perfect canyons, I loved how you included the petroglyphs, art of the Fremont people. Knowing the stories behind snaps is definitely my speed. 🙂

http://www.thewanderlusteur.com

Reply
Angie March 16, 2016 - 4:19 pm

You know what’s crazy? I live here in Utah and I’ve never driven these routes! Granted, I live up north in the state in Salt Lake City, but I still need to go. SO pretty.

Reply
Tara March 16, 2016 - 7:47 pm

I was thinking of you when I posted this, Angie. I remembered that you lived in Salt Lake City (a place I’ve never been) and wondered if you’d been down here. It’s pretty dang awesome! Don’t skip the coffee shop!

Reply
Deborah @ Kentucky to Cali March 15, 2016 - 7:27 pm

What a timely post! I am planning my trip back to Kentucky to see my family this summer. I had already planned on driving back to California through Utah so the kids can see some different parts of the US. Now I know what we’ll be doing. Thanks!!

Reply
Maya March 15, 2016 - 9:33 pm

Wow looks like a great trip! I love your photos!

Reply
Krista Williams March 15, 2016 - 3:25 pm

Great great photos! Utah is truly one of the most gorgeous places there is! I love this.

Thank you for sharing! A good reminder 🙂
Krista

Reply
Kari March 15, 2016 - 3:46 pm

Love all of that stunning red rock!
Kari
http://www.sweetteasweetie.com

Reply
Melissa March 15, 2016 - 3:17 pm

This really is breathtaking! Gorgeous. 🙂

Reply
rebecca March 4, 2015 - 6:46 am

What a beautiful place Utah looks to be! I’ve never been there. I am enjoying scanning through your photos, Tara.

Reply
Tara March 4, 2015 - 12:00 pm

Our trip through Utah has been one of our most memorable. We’ve been trying to get back, but the world is so big.

Reply
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